CIL’s Paint calculator will help you determine how much paint you'll need.
Usually, one of our quality acrylic latex or 100% acrylic water-based paints will be sufficient to fulfill your painting needs. However, in some circumstances, it may be better to use an oil-base paint. Here are a few suggestions and some pros and cons for both:
Latex
Quality interior latex paints provide better long-term flexibility that is resistant to cracking and chipping. Latex paints also tend to resist yellowing with age in areas protected from sunlight. They emit fewer odours, clean up with water and are not flammable. Finally, latex paint takes less time to dry than oil paint.
Pros
Cons
Oil
Oil-base paints offer superior one-coat hiding and better adhesion to difficult surfaces (such as those not thoroughly cleaned). Oil-base paints also allow for greater 'open time', superior resistance to 'blocking' (or face-to-face sticking) and resistance to abrasion, once cured.
Pros
Cons
The majority of oil-base paints when applied at room temperature will be dry (set-to-touch) within six to eight hours and may be re-coated within 16 hours. Poor ventilation, low temperatures, thick films and high humidity will increase these times.
The majority of latex paints when applied at room temperature will be dry (set-to-touch) within one hour or less and may be re-coated within four hours. Poor ventilation, low temperatures, thick films and high humidity will increase these times.
Ventilate! Any rooms you plan on painting should be ventilated well. Warm air movement is the most effective paint-curing mechanism. Remove any drapes and furniture, if possible, before painting. Paint fumes, even from latex paints, can permeate drapes, carpet and furniture. Cover furniture that can’t be removed.
Yes; this can be done by applying a 100% acrylic primer over the existing oil-base paint. This will act as a “tie coat”, allowing you to paint with a latex topcoat. Preparation of the existing surface is key to ensuring a good tie (bond) between the existing paint and the primer. To ensure that proper adhesion takes place when painting over a semi-gloss or gloss surface, the old paint should be dulled with either sandpaper or a dulling solvent prior to applying the new topcoat.
To establish if the paint on a surface is an oil or latex, rub the surface with a cloth wet with nail polish remover. Latex paint will leave a mark on the cloth. The oil paint will not.
CIL recommends that a primer always be applied prior to the topcoat for both interior and exterior projects. There are a number of reasons and circumstances that call for a primer:
- Greater colour retention
- Greater wash and scrub resistance
Tip: Using paint with a built-in primer will save time.
A paint colour's appearance is affected by the difference in its gloss level. Here's a quick recap of what to expect from a paint finish, and what finishes to use where.
To find out more information
Surface preparation is the most important step of the painting project. Almost all common paint problems are associated with poor surface preparation and rarely are due to failure of the paint itself. A clean surface will maximize paint adhesion and minimize stain bleed-through. To prepare a surface:
General pointers on product application include:
Paint the room from top to bottom. Start with the ceiling and then proceed with the windows, doors, baseboards and walls.
Yes — the “W” technique. Here’s how it works:
If possible, remove handles and hinges from the door; although not essential, this makes painting much easier. Then place the door on two sawhorses or a small table.
Step 1: Apply paint on the four edges of the door.
Step 2: Apply paint across the door on small sections at a time. Spread the coating lengthwise (along the wood grain).
Step 3: Smooth out paint lengthwise from unpainted to painted areas. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for other sections of the door.
Painting a paneled door requires you to break the painting down into sections. After following the same set-up procedures as a regular door, apply paint as follows:
Step 1: On the outer edges of the door.
Step 2: On the mouldings.
Step 3: On the panels.
Step 4: On the middle mullion.
Step 5: On the transoms.
Step 6: On the outer mullions.
The appropriate method will depend on the type of window:
Casement windows:
Step 1: Protect glass with masking tape.
Step 2: Paint the six facings of the casement.
Step 3: Paint the glazing bars.
Step 4: Paint the transoms.
Step 5: Paint the jambs.
Step 6: Paint the frame.
Step 7: Make sure the coating is dry before closing the window.
Sash windows:
Step 1: Protect glass with masking tape.
Step 2: Paint the six faces of the casement.
Step 3: Raise the inner casement and let the outer casement down.
Step 4: Paint the lower part of the outer casement.
Step 5: Reverse the casement position and paint the upper part of the outer casement.
Step 6: Paint the inner casement.
Step 7: Paint the frame.
Step 8: Paint the ledge.
Step 9: Wait for the paint to dry before closing the window.
There are two different methods for painting woodwork, the choice depending on whether you’re painting trim or baseboards. For each, a one- or two-inch brush is the most practical.
For the most precise coverage when painting trim, an angled trim brush is recommended. You'll save time by using masking tape over areas not freshly painted, but remember to remove the tape quickly after painting --- you'll avoid pulling the paint away with the tape.
When painting baseboards, it is helpful to use two-inch masking tape around the edges of the carpet. The tape should be placed about 3/4" on the baseboard and then tucked down over the carpet fibres as you pull them back from the baseboard. Because this tape will not stick firmly to the carpet, it is best to let the paint dry before removing the tape.
High levels of humidity and condensation make kitchens and bathrooms prone to paint cracking, peeling, and mildew. Our 100% Acrylic Kitchen and Bath paints can help avoid these problems. These paints have a slightly higher sheen value, meaning they provide a harder finish that is more moisture-resistant. They also resist the growth of mildew, often resulting from not only high humidity but also poor ventilation.
The easiest way to get rid of mildew is to wash the surface with a bleach-water mix. Bleach is useful in eliminating the fungus that causes mildew. Taking all safety precautions, here is how to remove mildew:
We do not recommend interior-labelled paints for exterior use. Interior paints are designed specifically for interior surfaces; use on exterior surfaces may compromise paint performance and film integrity.
We do not recommend using any exterior-labelled paint on an interior surface. Exterior paints are designed specifically for exterior use, and otherwise can compromise paint performance and film integrity. Additionally, exterior paints typically have included in their formulation fungicides to resist mildew growth; the level of mildewcide may be above the level recommended for interior use.
If you have any leftover paint, thinner or other chemicals, they should never be poured down the drain or otherwise disposed of carelessly. Leftover paint in a still-useable condition can be donated to churches, schools or other organizations. To determine if old paint is still useable, stir with a paint stick; if the paint is smooth, it is still good. Empty cans or those with a small amount of water-based paints in them should be left open and allowed to dry in a ventilated area, out of the reach of children and pets. In some municipalities, cans with dried latex paint may be discarded with household trash. Oil-base paints should be allowed to dry by adding to them absorbent material such as kitty litter. Leftover paint can become dangerous if not disposed of correctly. Become familiar with the disposal procedures recommended in your municipality. Some make regular, scheduled pickups of household hazardous waste; some also have recycling programs.
To get material safety data sheets (MSDS) on CIL products, call 1-800-DURABLE (1-800-387-2253) or e-mail us.
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