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General pointers on product application include:
Specific pointers for exterior paints and stains include:
Mildew is primarily an exterior surface problem, and appears as black, gray, or brown spots on the paint and other surfaces. Mildew is caused by warm, humid conditions, poor air circulation and a lack of direct sunlight. It often is present in damp, shaded areas — for example, under eaves or overhangs, and in areas where shrubbery is planted too close to an exterior surface.
Mildew must be removed before painting or it will bleed through the new paint. Remove mildew by scrubbing it with a solution of household bleach and water. Mix one part bleach to three parts water, and be sure to rinse the surface thoroughly with a garden hose after washing — power washing is recommended for larger areas. Always wear appropriate safety equipment (rubber gloves and eye protection) when using this solution, and protect shrubs and plants with plastic sheeting.
When all mildew has been removed, prime the surface to ensure good paint adhesion, a uniform sheen, durability, and continued mildew control.
To paint horizontal, vertical and slanting boards:
Always paint from an unpainted towards a painted area.
The numerous pieces of wood often used to build garden fences and furniture mean that there are multiple wood ends that can absorb moisture. It is important to cover these ends as well as any surfaces close to the ground to help seal and protect the wood as much as possible.
When painting, let coating penetrate cracks and knots to prevent water infiltration, which could cause mildew.
Painting fences:
1) Paint one board at a time starting with the sides.
2) Paint cross transversal pieces as you paint the boards.
Painting garden furniture:
1) Paint the underside.
2) Paint the legs.
3) Paint the top surface.
4) For a smooth surface, sand between coats with 220 grit sandpaper. Do not overdo sanding on the edges of the boards as you could decrease the thickness of the protective film.
Tip: If you are building a fence, use boards with rounded or diagonal ends, which allow water to slide off more easily and extend the life of the wood. Flat ends retain more water and should be avoided.
Knowing the characteristics and function of each finish will help you select the best stain for your project.
Proper surface preparation is as crucial as the application process.
Clean the surface with a detergent solution and rinse carefully. If wood exudes resin, scrape the excess and clean surface with alcohol or paint thinner. On bare wood surfaces, seal snots with shellac before applying a primer – primers are required only for solid stains.
There are two reasons for this. The most obvious is to make the wood smooth, but another key reason is to increase the penetration of the stain and make it more uniform — especially important with transparent stains.
The ideal environment is one that’s shady and dry for 24 hours before and after application. Before applying stain, wait at least 16 hours after a light rainfall, and wait 24 hours after a heavy rainfall or high-pressure cleaning. Temperatures should range from 10oC to 32oC.
Applying stain in the shade will allow for a clean, even finish and help avoid lap marks. Paint one or two boards at a time, making sure the stain doesn’t dry in the middle of the board during application. Apply stain generously in the direction of the wood grain pattern, leaving no bare spots or excessively coated areas.
In painting or staining a deck, it’s especially important to properly seal and protect the exposed ends of the wood, especially as they’re often close to the ground and tend to absorb more moisture. To properly coat the deck:
1) Paint the underside.
2) Paint the traverses.
3) Paint the ends.
4) Paint the side and tops of the boards in two- or three-foot sections starting with cracks and knots. Let coating penetrate cracks and knots to prevent water infiltration, which could cause mildew.
Note: Wait seven days before putting furniture back into place.
The exposure and wear on decks during the summer make it more practical to apply new coatings toward the end of the season. This also helps protect against excessive moisture during the fall rainy season and in winter snow. Moisture is a key factor in wear and tear, and this kind of regular maintenance will extend the life of your deck.
Ideally, wood decks should be stained prior to construction to ensure a seal on all edges and prevent moisture from penetrating the wood. Most decks, however, are painted or stained after they have been constructed. After construction, the sides and bottom of the deck cannot be coated properly. This allows moisture to enter the wood through the sides and bottom. When sun shines on the coated surface, it forces the moisture out through the paint or stain, causing it to peel. Again, to avoid this, staining pre-construction is recommended.
Pressure-treated lumber is kiln-dried wood (usually spruce or yellow pine) that is treated with chemical preservatives dispersed in water. To determine if the wood is dry enough for stain or paint, put water drops on the wood’s surface. If the water soaks in, the wood is ready. It can then be painted or stained like any other wood surface. Over time, pressure-treated wood that is not painted or stained will weather, crack and check as badly as untreated wood.
Wood that has been exposed to the sun for more than a month should be sanded before painting — especially if it has started to turn grey. Sunlight causes the wood fibres to “chalk” and erode unevenly. They then form a weak surface layer with poor adhesion, which can cause the paint to peel. One simple test for sun damage is to press a piece of tape on the surface, rub the back of the tape to ensure good contact, and then strip off the tape. If a lot of wood fibres cling to the tape, the wood needs sanding before painting.
CIL recommends that a primer always be applied prior to the topcoat for both interior and exterior projects. There are a number of reasons and circumstances that call for a primer:
In addition to the above reasons, a primer can also be tinted with a topcoat colourant to help promote coverage. This becomes necessary when you're working with a dark or accent colour.
Tip: Using paint with a built-in primer will save time.
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